Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

"Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life" is a memoir that chronicles the author's lifelong passion for surfing. The book takes readers on a journey from the author's childhood in California and Hawaii to his travels around the world in search of the perfect wave. Along the way, he experiences diverse cultures, faces danger and adventure, and examines his own character and motivations. The memoir is not just about surfing, but also a reflection on relationships, self-discovery, and the irresistible pull of the ocean.

The 9921st greatest book of all time


Published
2015
Nationality
American
Type
Nonfiction
Pages
384
Words
156,000
Original Language
English

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